Why use a separate belay rope?
Why go for such a standardised & regimented system?
Why have everything going to one anchor point - wouldn't separate anchors be safer?
Why have such a group?
What is the best belay device for a rescue situation?

Why use a separate belay rope?

As a group of experienced climbers we decided early on during the formulation of this group that the advantages of a separate belay rope outweighed the disadvantages. The advantages are :

1/ Additional security during the extremely unlikely event of a rescue line break due to haul malfunction.
2/ Additional security during a rescue line break due to rock fall - a possibilty on remote, canyon, big cliff or multi pitch rescues.
3/ Additional security in the event of a Larkin Frame collapse or sideways topple during an "out of line" haul or lower.

The only real disadvantage is the requirement of an additional rope and operator - on a serious rescue this should be readily overcome.    back to top of page

Why go for such a standardised & regimented system?

It is important that our systems are as closely aligned with the Police Rescue as is practical because we are only ever going to work with the direct cooperation and involvement of the Police.  If our two systems are compatible (even though not exactly the same) there is less reason for confusion or communication hassles during a real rescue. Staff can easily stand in on either system and they will understand what is going on and will be able to operate safely and efficiently.    back to top of page

Why have everything going to one anchor point - wouldn't separate anchors be safer?

The problem with separate anchors - for the belay rope or reversible brake for example - is that when long lengths of rope are used, and when heavy weights are involved (such as two people), is that too much stretch and movement takes place. This can actually be dangerous (due to the potential for sideways movement along a cliff edge by a heavily loaded rope) and will certainly be inefficient when hauling. If a reversible brake is either out of line, or on it's own rope back to a distant anchor, there is an inevitable "loss of lift" during each reset of the hauling system. Similarly, a belay rope - if weighted during an emergency, should not be subject to any sideways force - it should be in the same line as the failed rescue line.

The answer to this dilema is to have the single attachment point constructed so it is absolutely "bomb proof". Multiple lines are used to connect a strong rigging plate (or sling and carabiner anchor) to multiple equalised anchors. Anchors should be within a 60 degree sector for maximum strength. Slings can be used to stagger the positions of the various operators of each of the components - rescue line belayer, belay rope belayer, reversible brake minder etc.    back to top of page

Why have such a group?

We only exist to assist the Police Rescue on rescues that might call for the skills of experienced climbers. Examples of the types of incidents where we might be useful could include :

1/ An injured climber under an overhang where climbing skills may be required to get to the patient.
2/ A multiple abseil access and multiple haul to retrieve a patient utilising the placement and equalisation of natural anchors or bolts on ledges or on a cliff face.
3/ A technical canyon rescue involving the vertical extraction and evacuation of a patient that may require the use of natural anchors. Fortunately this type of rescue hasn't been required yet because a helicopter has been available, but sometime in the future there will be a rescue after dark or in windy or foggy conditions when a helicopter can't fly.
4/ Local knowledge for finding remote or rarely visited climbs or canyons. Who knows when someone might have an accident in King George Brook canyon or on "The Emu" or "Better than Ben Hur"?    back to top of page

What is the best belay device for a rescue situation?

This is an interesting question. Check out the article from Technical Rescue Magazine elsewhere on this site for a more detailed answer. Briefly, we've looked at what others around the world are using, and have made some decisions about what is appropriate for our conditions and level of expertise and have settled on a Petzl Gri Gri until a better device comes along. In a series of tests as detailed in the previously mentioned article the Gri Gri performed very well, ie it held a simulated rescue load without damaging the rope. It had a tendencey to jam and would not always release and lower the load but could be "encouraged" to do so with a few taps from a wooden mallet.

We don't view this as a serious shortcoming as we will have the equipment on hand to unload a jammed Gri Gri if it ever happens, which is pretty unlikely anyway. The test scenario was pretty stringent and had an element of free fall in the test.

Double prussiks performed very well - basically comparable to the Gri Gri on dry ropes but were unpredictable on wet ropes. Our decision has been to go with the Gri Gri because it is more reliable and predictable in a variety of conditions.

In addition, as a group of climbers the Gri Gri is something we will have on hand.

It is worth remembering that there is not really a belay device produced that is rated by the manufacturer for rescue use (ie: use where it may be required to hold two people plus equipment). We are operating in an area where we are reliant on independent test results to evaluate which device is appropriate for our use. back to top of page