Blue Mountains Climber's Rescue Group

Report - Practice Day 11/9/01 - Boars Head Rock
click HERE for more photos of this prac day.

18 people attended and the group started with a basic "refresher" practice lift on a 20 metre cliff near the Boars Head, Katoomba. A Larkin Frame was used and a simple lower of litter attendant with litter, retrieval of patient and lift followed by a hauling operation to retrieve the litter attendant and patient. A 4:1 haul ratio was used by a team of 5 haulers. Two people were stationed on the cliff edge to facilitate communications (no radios used on this lift) and to help bring the loaded litter over the cliff edge at the top of the haul.


A more ambitious task was then set and executed with an extended vertical extraction from the deep narrow crevasse beneath the Boars Head followed by a Tyrollean Traverse using a span line arrangement for bringing the patient and attendant back to the cliff top. The scenario was of a patient with a broken lower leg at the base of the first abseil of the crevasse. A scout was sent ahead to evaluate the line of the evacuation and possible use of the tyrollean. The scout evaluated the patient and then provided information to the rescue team at the cliff top. The block at the top of the vertical lift was small and devoid of anchors so in this situation it was decided to use that area as a redirection for the haul which was conducted from the main cliff top. The block was then rigged to provide the lower anchor for the tyrollean traverse span lines for the second phase of the evacuation. The anchors for both positions (top and block) were provided by equalised trees, boulders and removable protection. The block anchors were extended to the top of the block and were stabilised (sideways) to prevent the attachment point from rolling off the block.

The vertical lift was straightforward although extra friction was noted by the haul team due to the extra redirectional pulleys on the block. Although the rope was kept clear of rubbing on the rock, the extra friction caused by direction changes and from deviations around pulleys was considerable. The belay rope path was kept very closely aligned to the path of the rescue line to minimise rolling or shock loading in the event of any failure of the rescue line.

Once on top of the block the patient (in litter) and litter attendant were attached to the tyrollean and were hauled at an angle of approximately 20 degrees (rising) to the top of the main cliff over a horizontal distance of approx 55 metres. Double span lines (11mm static) were used to increase the safety factor and tension was kept low (see notes elsewhere on span line tension) to keep "force magnification" within acceptable limits. A double pulley was used to attach the patient and attendant to the span lines. A second double pulley was used to provide a backup pulley in order to maintain two points of attachment to the span lines. The attendant hung slightly below the patient which helped in getting the patient off the block and over the top cliff edge with minimum bumping. It was decided to have both the patient and the attendant on the system to give the group a high level of difficulty for the task - we ammended the scenario to include a situation where the patient may have been having breathing difficulty and an attendant was required to maintain an airway. If it was not essential for an attendant to travel with a patient in an evacuation a greater safety margin becomes possible with just one person on the tyrollean at a time.

A "soft" litter (SKED type) was used for this scenario which was excellent for the narrow confined nature of the vertical crevasse for the first lift but became very uncomfortable for the patient on the tyrollean. A better option may have been to use the SKED for the vertical section and to have transferred the patient to a stokes for the remainder.

The haul team used a 5:1 ratio for the vertical lift due to the anticipated additional friction provided by the major direction changes on the block. This was changed to a 4:1 for the tyrollean.

Due to the relatively slack span lines (to keep magnification forces low) the litter and attendant ended up below cliff top height on arrival at the top of the haul. Four people were positioned at the edge to help bring the litter over the edge. This worked well.

To keep the span lines as high as possible the Larkin Frame was used a a static tripod (in "laid right back" mode") for the span lines. The head of the tripod was tied off sideways (at approx 90 and 270 degrees) to help minimise any tendency of sideways movement. The haul lines did not go through the head of the tripod. In addition to the haul line and a second belay line to the cliff top (as per our standard methods) the patient and attendant were also belayed "uphill" from the block (gri gri) so that in the unlikely event of a span line failure the belay ropes would provide a "suspended" belay. The lower belay from the block was carefully managed so as to never become tight against the haul team which could produce unacceptable loads on the rear and block anchors.

Removable redirections were used below the block to keep the haul path clear of obstacles and constrictions. Radios (chest mounted UHF) were used for communications on this task.

The advanced task took about four hours from initial planning to completion which included some time taken for explanation of various points to the group.

The group comprised a wide variety of members (with varying skills and experience), a number of newcomers and two members of the Police Rescue Service. The day was a great success and was a good demonstration of close team work from a diverse group.

Many thanks to all those who contributed time and loaned gear.

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