Blue Mountains Climber's Rescue Group

Standard Methods & Procedures


Introduction :

The suggested methods detailed below are to encourage consistency within the group. In many cases the suggested method is also used by the Police Rescue.

Knots :

harness attachment                        Figure 8 knot rethreaded
anchor attachment                          Figure 8 knot rethreaded
joining 2 abseil ropes                      Single overhand
joining 2 load ropes                        Figure 8 rethreaded
mid rope knot                                 Alpine butterfly

Carabiners :

Only use locking carabiners for rigging, non lockers are acceptable for climbing access to a rescue site.

Abseiling / Lowering Device :

Personal use                        Fig 8, ATC, Rack, Whaletail or Goldtail  (Fig 8 is not desirable if abseil rope end is captive)
Rescue use                          Rack, Whaletail or Goldtail

Hauling System :

1/ "Bolt On" hauling system to operate wholly at cliff top utilising a reversible brake downline from the hauling system.

2/ One central anchor point is used for the attachment of all the system components. A rigging plate is ideal but a number of steel locking carabiners are acceptable, provided none are cross loaded.

* See the accompanying diagram for the standard set up.

* If a Larkin Frame is used the set up does not change apart from some allowance being made in regard to positioning the reversible brake.

Larkin Frame :

A Larkin Frame is a simple device for providing a high rigging point (usually a pulley) for use in raising and lowering operations. It will be used during our practice days. It can be set up as full or half sized versions. It is particularly useful for clearing the cliff edge with a litter and bringing the litter easily to rest at the cliff top.

Due to its weight and bulk it will not always be practical to take a Larkin Frame to a cliff or canyon rescue. Each Police Rescue vehicle has a Larkin Frame as standard issue.

Lowering System :

The lowering system is simply the hauling system with THREE changes :

1/ The reversible brake is taken off the rescue line.

2/ The bolt on hauling system is taken off the rescue line.

3/ A Rack, Goldtail or Whaletail is substituted for the GriGri on the rescue line.

* The belay rope is utilised as a back up during the lower.

* Two people must operate the lowering device, one to supply rope to the lowerer who operates the device.

Positioning of Rescue Team :

The following should be regarded as the minimum number of operators to perform a rescue. A rescue leader may decide to utilise police or other volunteers to perfom some roles.

Rescue Leader                        overall management / major decision making

Scout                                      uses own abseil rope

Litter Attendant

Edge Controller                        in some cases this may be the Rescue Leader

Belayer - Belay Rope               uses Gri Gri and static rope

Belayer - Rescue Line              uses Gri Gri and static line

Hauling Team                           exact number depends on situation


Additional people, if available, can be used for the following useful roles :

Reversible Brake minder           helps reduce loss of lift on resets

Mid Point Relays                       on abseil ropes, can aid communications

Edge Muscle                            help lift litter over the cliff edge (tied in)

Larkin Steadiers                       standing on Larkin legs to prevent movement

* The Rescue Leader must be an A-List rescuer.

* Litter Attendant and Edge Controller (if it is not the Rescue Leader) should be solid B-List rescuers.

Communications :

Wherever possible we will use the Police Radios on a rescue. For practice days we will use private radios. If radios are not available on a rescue it is imperative that appropriate visual communication is made between the Edge Controller and the Litter Attendant. It may be necessary to position "Mid Point Relays" on separate abseil ropes to aid in communication.

Whistle Use :

Our policy on whistle use and signaling is still being developed, until we decide on what to use we will adopt the following : ANY WHISTLE BLAST MEANS STOP.

A litter attendant may utilise this method if other communications (radio or visual) have not worked for any number of reasons during a raise or lower. Falling rock, a problem with a patient or being stuck under a roof could all be instances which require an immediate stop.

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